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Üzümlü Weaving

Üzümlü weavings are woven on whipped looms known as ‘düven’ in this area (Üzümlü District of the County of Fethiye in Muğla). The operation of the shuttle with the whipping system in these looms accelerates the weaving process.

Cotton yarn and sheep wool are used for these weavings, which are produced with a width of 65-70 cm.

warp and weft yarns are mostly cotton. There are five types of Üzümlü weavings, namely ‘dastar’, ‘kanat’ (wing), ‘gömlek’ (shirt), ‘handkerchief’ and ‘silk’.

Dastar weaving is the most famous weaving of the area of Üzümlü. The base woven in woollen yarn is ornamented with motifs embroidered with cotton yarn.
These weavings are quite commonly used because of their quality of heat isolation.
They keep the body warm in winter and cool in summer. The weaving is produced with a length range between 1.5 m and 10 m and a width of 65 cm.

These are traditionally used as shirt, dress and headscarf and more recently as decorative covers. 

- Wing weaving is a type of Üzümlü weaving intended for decorative use produced with a width range of 65-80 cm and a length range of 150-200 cm with embroideries on the borders and motifs of cotton yarn on a base woven in cotton yarn.  

Shirt weaving is produced for textile use and woven in stripes with sheep wool, cotton and silken yarns. This is colloquially known as göyneklik.
The silken yarns used between the cotton and the wool enrich the weaving with a touch of brightness.

- Handkerchief weaving is produced with woollen yarn and cotton yarn. Stripes of different thicknesses are created in the direction of weft and warp in two different colours with a general width of approximately 75-80 cm.

Whereas these works used to be woven as dowry handkerchiefs, they are used today mostly as bed linens, draperies, cushions and table cloths.

- Silk weaving is produced with hand-spun raw silk. Once the silk is woven in its natural form, it is softened by boiling to obtain a soft and bright fabric. This boiling process does not affect the natural colour of silk.

Silk weaving used to be produced as shirts, blouses, dresses and headscarves. However, this type of weaving is no longer performed today.   



İsmail Öztürk-Esra Kavcı ‘Dokumaya Giriş’ Morfil Yayınları 2007

Nuray kazıcıoğlu, Muğla ili Fethiye İlçesi Üzümlü Bucağı El Dokumaları, izmir,1990 Yayımlanmamış Yüksek Lisans Tezi

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